What are the best collector's watches

Watch compassThe best watch brands

Orientation - without a purchase recommendation

Rolex, once founded by the German Hans Wilsdorf, continues to set standards. Compared to the previous year, the values ​​improved in five of the seven categories: design, price-performance ratio, customer service, sportiness and lasting value - here the competition from Patek Philippe was once again left behind. Patek itself can easily improve in six categories. In the Tradition category, they only just missed the perfect grade of 1.0.

For the Uhrenkompass, Capital asks each respondent to rate the phrase “This brand stands for tradition / innovation / etc.”: From strong approval (value 1) to strong disagreement (value 4). This results in a clear ranking of the 36 brands for each category.

In this way, the compass offers orientation without making purchase recommendations. Anyone who wants to buy a mechanical watch is committing an act that is difficult to explain rationally anyway, comparable to buying a work of art.

Perhaps it is part of the process for German dealers and customers to take a particularly benevolent look at domestic watches. Although: There is also a lot of Switzerland in the manufacturers from Glashütte. Like Cartier and IWC, A. Lange belongs to the Swiss Richemont Group. Glashütte Original and Union Glashütte form the Swatch Group. German manufacturers cannot do without Swiss precision components.

All the more astonishing that, of all things, the small, independent manufacturer Nomos announced in 2013: We can now manufacture the heart of a clockwork ourselves, the so-called Reglage. “Swiss luxury watches” is actually no longer a pleonasm.

Capital special: watches

The watch compass is part of our watch special in the current issue of Capital. There you will also find a report on the legend of the manufactory - a journey into the heart of horology.

Here you can see theiPad editiondownload. Here is theSubscription shopif you want to order the print edition.